The Hakata Gion Yamakasa is one of the most famous festivals in Japan and has a long and rich history. It is attended by an estimated three million people every year, and is one of three major annual festivals held in Hakata, along with the Hakata Dontaku held in May, and the Hakozaki Shrine Hojoya held every September.

My first visit to the Hakata Gion Yamakasa’s grand finale, the Oiyama, was in 2019. It had been more than five years since I had moved to Fukuoka, but I had not yet experienced the event that was so important to the people here. As a self-professed lover of all things Fukuoka, I decided that it was time to check it out.

The Oiyama begins every year at 4:59 in the morning on July 15. Now I know that Japan Railways operates special early morning train service for festival goers wanting to see the finale, but when I went to my first Oiyama, I did not have that information. So, my friend and I took the last train the night before into Hakata, and we spent a few hours drinking and eating at an izakaya bar until the festivities began. While it was a great memory, it was unnecessary as there are trains available into Hakata from many directions running from around 3 am. The schedule is subject to change, but I will post the link to this year’s trains below.

Anyway, back to 2019. With our tummies full of good food and drink from the local bar, we headed off to get a good spot to watch the floats race by. It was a magical day for me, one in which I felt one with the people of Fukuoka standing beside me. The atmosphere was electric with both the sheer energy expended by the participants carrying around the one-ton floats, and the excitement of the crowds cheering them on. That day I felt proud to be a Fukuokan. But before I talk more about that, let me introduce the Hakata Gion Yamakasa.

History of Hakata Gion Yamakasa

The Hakata Gion Yamakasa was said to have begun almost 800 years ago, when a Buddhist priest was carried on a float through the streets of Hakata, sprinkling holy water on those around him in an effort to stop the spread of an epidemic that was plaguing the city. This event became an annual ritual in Hakata to prevent the epidemic from returning. While Japan may not seem like a very religious country at first glance to the first-time visitor, many festivals, including the Hakata Gion Yamakasa are still very sacred events in which numerous Shinto and Buddhist rituals are carried out by participants.

The Yamakasa Floats

The Yamakasa floats, called yama in Japanese, are divided into two categories. The kazariyama, or decorative floats, are placed on display in various areas of Fukuoka from July 1. The front of the floats, called the omote, face Kushida Shrine and are often decorated with the famous Hakata dolls depicting historical figures. The back of the floats, called the miokuri, depict various characters from anime and children’s stories, as well as caricatures of local celebrities. The floats are intricately designed, and much care is put into making them every year. They are on display until the end of the festival, but the float located at Kushida Shrine can be viewed all year round. Although many people see the Hakata Gion Yamakasa as mainly the Oiyama finale, these floats are amazing works of art, so be sure to check them out if you are in Fukuoka in the first half of July.

Kazariyama Float from the Higashi Nagare

Originally, there was only one kind of float. However, as Hakata became a more modernized area, it became impossible to carry the tall floats around the city, some of which are 10 meters high, because they would hit the ever-increasing power lines. As a result, in 1898, the floats were separated into two categories—the above-mentioned decorative kazariyama, and the kakiyama, the smaller floats that are raced through the city in the early hours of July 15 by the men of Hakata.

While there are various events during the two-week period, the Kazariyama and Kakiyama are the centerpieces of the festival. The climax of the festival is without a doubt the Oiyama held on the last day of the festival.

Kakiyama Float at the 2023 Hakata Gion Yamakasa

Oiyama Finale

Hakata was divided into seven areas by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1586-1587. Every year, seven floats representing these seven areas are raced in the Oiyama finale. The areas, called nagare, are Higashi, Nakasu, Nishi, Chiyo, Ebisu, Doi, and Daikoku. In addition to the seven kakiyama, one of the larger kazariyama, called the Kamikawabatadori also participates in the Oiyama, bringing the total of floats to eight. This is the final float to depart, and it runs only part of the course.

Because the Oiyama is a Shinto ritual, only men are allowed to participate, although elementary age and younger girls will often join the race with their fathers or grandfathers. The men in each area start preparing their floats and practicing for the race months in advance.

It takes about 30 men to carry around each float, which can weigh up to a ton. The other participants from each nagare run in front of and behind their floats offering up cheers and yelling encouragement to the racers. Several men, highly respected elders from each area, ride on top of their float. These men are called the Dai-Agari, and their job is to offer instructions to the racers. As the float is extremely heavy, most runners can only last a few minutes. The Dai-Agari watch over the runners to see how they are holding up and direct the substitution of runners when they deem it necessary. This is a crucial job to the success of the race and being chosen as a Dai-Agari is a great honor.

The first float departs at 4:59 am, first entering Kushida Shrine before leaving the shrine to run the rest of the five-kilometer course. The remaining floats, following the same course, depart in five-minute intervals. During the race, runners carry these massive floats through the streets of Hakata, maneuvering some harrowing 180-degree turns along the way, until they reach the finish line at the Fukuoka Asian Art Museum.

Where to watch

When I attended the Oiyama finale for the first time in 2019, I watched the floats on the streets between Kushida Shrine and the Asian Art Museum. I was able to get a prime spot and watch the floats from up close. However, many visitors long to see the Oiyama from Kushida Shrine, the starting point of the race. From here you can hear the taiko drums and the singing of the famous Hakata folk song, Iwai Medeta. As a Japanese folk song lover who has learned to play this Hakata classic on the shamisen, I definitely wanted to check out the Oiyama from Kushida Shrine during my second visit in 2023.

Waiting for the start of the festivities in front of Kushida Shrine.

Watching the start of the Oiyama from Kushida Shrine is a completely different experience from watching it along the streets of Hakata. Since I live about 45 minutes from the city, I hopped on the early morning train, arriving at JR Hakata Station at 4:07 am. I immediately headed over to Kushida Shrine, but there were already so many people there that I was unable to get a good look at the first float when it departed the shrine. Still, I could definitely feel the energy in the atmosphere, and it was thrilling to hear the cheers go up from the crowd when the floats took off in five-minute intervals. With the departure of each float, the crowd thinned so I was able to make my way almost to the front. After watching for a while in front of the shrine, I headed off to watch the floats along the route at various places in Hakata. While I was able to get some good pictures in a variety of locations, I found that I lost some time and photo opportunities moving from Kushida Shrine to the viewing route.

Kushida Shrine on the morning of the 2023 Hakata Gion Yamakasa Oiyama.

Those wanting to watch the start of the Oiyama from Kushida Shrine should try to get there as early as possible to ensure that they can get a good view of the departing floats. It is like going to a rock concert early to get a spot in front of the stage. This may be difficult for those who are coming from outside of the city due to the limited train schedule, but for those who live in Fukuoka city, or are staying in a hotel around the area, this is doable, and I highly recommend it.

My first time at the Hakata Gion Yamakasa’s grand finale was magical to me because I had never seen it before, and to me, it was all that I love about Japanese culture in a nutshell—community pride, the spirit of cooperation, Shinto ritual, and unity. Unless the men carrying the floats and the two Dai-Agari work together in complete unity, the race could never be completed. It is not a ‘me’ event but an ‘us’ event, which I think perfectly illustrates Japanese culture. Without the residents and visitors cheering on the racers, they would be sure to tire out and maybe even be tempted to give up. To me, the Hakata Gion Yamakasa perfectly illustrates the spirit of the people of Fukuoka.

The men of Hakata Gion Yamakasa.

This year’s Hakata Gion Yamakasa Oiyama was especially meaningful, as it was the first time the event was held without restrictions since the COVID-19 pandemic changed the world in 2020. The Oiyama was cancelled in 2020 and 2021. In 2022 it was held as normal, but people were encouraged to watch the festivities from home. So, this year was exciting. Once again, the Japanese community spirit was on full display--not only in the running of the floats, but also in the resilience shown by everyone to get through these difficult three years. And never has the original meaning of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa resonated more in my heart than it did this year. For almost 800 years, the people of Hakata have gathered to pray to their gods for protection from a plague, and COVID-19 is the kind of plague that we have never experienced before.

This year, I also reflected on the fragility of life. For the first time in modern Hakata Gion Yamakasa history, one of the racers was struck and killed by a float. Although I was at a distance, I saw the ambulance arrive and watched the paramedics work on the victim for a long time. I later found out that this man had passed away from his injuries. It was an event that shook the participants and spectators deeply. I was reminded how huge and heavy those floats really are, and that this race coming to an end every year with no injuries is really a miracle. I prayed for the soul of the victim and his family and was reminded that I need to pray for the safety of all the participants every year.
Despite tragedy, disruptions and hardships, the Hakata Gion Yamakasa has continued for almost 800 years, and is sure to continue for many more. Every time I attend this event, I feel proud to be a resident of Fukuoka. Whether you are a resident of Fukuoka like I am, or just passing through, this festival is not to be missed. I think it will make you see the beauty of the Japanese spirit just like I do.

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